Monday, February 11, 2008

Fondue (What Rebeca's Missing, Part 5)

I spend a lot of time reading the New York Times online. A lot of time. One day, I stumbled across this article, which described how simple and easy it was to make fondue, and remembering a fantastic (though expensive) romantic meal that Shanthi and I shared at the Wine Cellar in Boston, we decided to try our hands at making fondue at home. First, we bought a small but reasonably thick cast-iron pot from Woolworth's (although I don't generally like teflon coating, it really helps with cleaning when you're done eating the sticky melted cheese). We were also able to find gruyere and emmenthaler cheese at Woolworth's!We followed the classic fondue recipe available with the NY Times article (we used a bit more garlic since we love garlic and the garlic here is pretty non-potent), dipping pieces of boiled potatoes, steamed vegetables (broccoli, carrots and zucchini) and bits of ciabatta bread into the cheesy goodness and were shocked to find out that we had recreated a meal that was every bit as good as the fondue at the Wine Cellar, but for a tiny fraction of the cost. We can't wait til Beca gets back and we can share a little Switzerland in Botswana with her (and Rim too)!

We used the base of the terracotta rondavel-shaped tea candle holder (given to us as a holiday gift from Rim) to keep the fondue heated while we enjoyed it. And we reheated the leftovers the next day for lunch! Yum!

Mashed Potato Soup (What Rebeca's Missing, Part 4)

Our good friend, Dr. Rebeca Plank, has been back in Boston for about a month and a half. We miss her dearly, but apparently she is on her way back to Gaborone and so I am pressed to finish posting the "What Rebeca is Missing" series (in 5 parts) before she returns. Of all the posts in this series, this one surely rings the truest, as it is probably Rebeca's overall favorite amongst all the dinners we have prepared and we know that if there's any meal she's missing it's this one.

A little back-story before we get into the tale. Shanthi and I LOVE south Indian cuisine. Many years ago, I happened upon a south indian vegetarian cookbook which I truly believe that every person who loves vegetarian cooking and loves Indian food MUST have on their shelves: Dakshin, by Chandra Padmanabhan. I love this cookbook so much that I own two copies (just in case I lose one or it falls apart or the cookbook goes out of print). The meals we've made from it are outstanding. It has a photograph of every single recipe in the book, so you can look at the pictures and say "I want to make that", and you can compare how the food looks on your plate with how it's supposed to look. The layout is perfect...cannot say enough about this cookbook.

Sadly, we did not bring a copy here to Botswana with us, assuming that we wouldn't have access to south Asian groceries. We were wrong. The Indian food in Gaborone is infinitely better than any I've had in the United States, be it Boston, San Francisco, or on Oak Tree Road in Iselin N.J....what have you. And while we cannot find fresh curry leaves, we can get just about every other south asian ingredient we need here (except, of course, fresh limes). So one day, while perusing one of the two local bookstores that have any books you might want to buy (Exclus!ve Books, in Riverwalk Mall), I found an Indian cookbook that seemed nice (and does indeed have some decent recipes): Fresh Flavours of India, by Das Sreedharan.

In this book is a recipe for a mashed potato-based soup called "Cheera Soup". The recipe didn't seem particularly Indian to me, but we tried it (being fans of all things potato), and it turned out kinda ok but not quite right. However, we liked the concept and realized that the fault was not the concept but the execution. So, I completely revised how one puts this soup together and voila! A new dish was made and Rebeca was very very happy (as were we). This soup is VERY easy to make.

OK, enough talk...let's go through the soup itself...

First, make mashed potatoes however you like. Before mashing the boiled potatoes, peel them and save the peels. I prefer garlic mashed potatoes with thyme and black pepper. Keep the addition of salt to a minimum as other components of the soup will be salty (the broth and, possibly, the onions). Putting the herbs in the mashed potatoes is great cause once in the soup they kind of leech out into the broth as you break apart the clump of mashed potato with your spoon. Ok, getting ahead of ourselves...

Next, put a pot of water on to boil. Drop in bouillon cubes (we use vegetable bouillon) to dissolve (start with just one cube and add more water or more bouillon material to taste. If you added salt to the mashed potatoes, you probably want the broth to be less salty). Make sure that the broth reaches near boiling temperature but that it doesn't boil over. If it boils over, it kind of ruins the flavor of the broth (in my opinion. Also something learned from Tampopo). Next, caramelize some onions. I like to use brown sugar and a splash of soy sauce (or tamari) for this. It makes the onions quite a bit darker than normal clarified and caramelized onions, but also adds a more complex spectrum of flavors. In addition, take the potato skins and fry them. You don't have to deep fry them, but my guess is that it might taste better if you do a rapid deep fry (we don't have a pan for this nor do I like wasting that much oil, so I just fry the potato skins in a skillet).

Slice a fresh tomato or two and wash some fresh spinach (if the leaves are big, cut them into smaller, more manageable pieces). Now that all the components of the soup are ready, it's time to assemble the soup. Remember, the broth must be piping hot...the other components will be cool or room temperature, and when the broth hits them, it will cool down. So it's key to have the broth at near boiling temperature.

First put a small mound of mashed potatoes into a soup bowl. Then surround it with slices of raw tomato.Next pile on the raw spinach. Then carefully ladle the hot broth on top of the spinach. Let the soup sit for about 30 seconds and then garnish the soup with a dollop of carmelized onions and a dollop of fried potato skins.

The tomato slices and spinach should have cooked in the hot broth to a perfect consistency. The mashed potatoes will begin to diffuse into the broth. I suspect that mixing a bit of Asian (Thai) Basil with the spinach will clinch the flavor combination in this soup, but I have not tried this yet. I know that Rebeca has some Asian basil growing at her house, so perhaps we'll try this soon. Italian basil (the type we usually find in groceries in the US) probably will not work...it wilts too fast and doesn't maintain flavor in heat as well as Asian basil does. If you try this soup out, let me know what you think!

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Revisiting Pizza (What Rebeca's missing, Part 3)


You may have read about the potato pizza we are fond of making (and fond of eating). Pizza is pretty easy to make and almost always tastes good. Here are a few other varieties we've come up with:

Olive pizza (shown in the photo at the top of this post). This one was based on a pizza we had at Emma's in Cambridge, MA. Their variety was green olives and cracked black peppercorns. We think we've improved it with the addition of Kalamata olives and freshly ground black pepper rather than using large tooth-splitting peppercorns. Very simple to make and really really good, especially as an appetizer pizza. The photo at the top of this post shows the finished pizza. This one shows the assembled olive pizza before it was baked in the oven. You can see the white/yellow grated cheddar cheese mixture we use on pizza and pasta here in Botswana since the mozzarella here tastes like tofu. Tofu's great...I just don't like it grated and on my pizza.

Spinach and roasted red peppers pizza. This one was a big hit with our audience (Rim). I stepped it up a bit in making the sauce for this one and paid off because this pizza was delicious! [The trick with putting spinach on pizza is that you must first briefly cook the spinach in a splash of water. Otherwise it will dry out and burn on the pizza as it bakes] Avocado Pizza. We had some avocados that needed to be eaten and decided to just give the concept a try. Shanthi expressed her doubts about this one when I explained the idea to her, but I pressed on. In the end, she was right...this one was a bit of a dud.I think that there were a couple of mistakes...one was adding blue cheese. It ended up overpowering the more delicate flavor of the avocados. The other mistake was related: we didn't really accent the flavor of the avocado. I think that if we attempt avocado on pizza again, we might try dollops of guacamole instead. The power went out (as per routine lately) just as this pizza was coming out of the oven, so I had to assemble and photograph it by candle light.

Tapas in Gaborone (What Rebeca's Missing, part 2)


Shanthi and I enjoy the challenge of trying to replicate some of our favorite meals from our favorite restaurants in the Boston area with the limited ingredients available to us here in Gaborone. One of our favorite restaurants in the Boston area is Taberna de Haro, a Spanish tapas place that errs a bit on the side of overpriced and over-oiled, but serves up some delicious food. In a city where going out for tapas means going to Dali (in Somerville), Tapeo (on Newbury St.) or Solea (Moody St. inWaltham...all three operated by the same owners), or Tasca (on Comm. Ave. - the vegetarian dishes there are blah) it's nice to see a DIFFERENT tapas menu for a change. Taberna de Haro also has an incredible wine list, which introduced me to Riojas, specifically those from the Sierra Cantabria winery (which was our choice for a red wine to be served at our wedding).

Taberna de Haro (on Beacon St. at the St. Mary's T stop on the green "C" line) has some wonderful items on the menu, including their Cabrales con sidra (a pungent breadspread made of cider and Australian blue cheese...I suspect they use "Roaring Forties Blue", an outstanding and uniquely flavored blue cheese from down under), and my absolute favorite, Papas Arrugadas: Canary Island potatoes con mojo picon [a red sauce made from olive oil, red wine vinegar (or balsamic vinegar), garlic, salt, a bit of cayenne pepper and a few tablespoons of paprika]. I've tried to replicate the papas arrugadas on my own many times and have come close, but not quite there. I think that I am missing some secret ingredients...possibly sumac and ground thyme as the flavor that hits the back of the throat is a bit like za'atar. Since I have not been able to get my hands on any sumac (or ground thyme...or za'atar), just the paprika alone makes a decent, if incomplete, offering. Even if they don't use sumac in the papas arrugadas at Taberna de Haro, I think they should. I think that would (or will) clinch it and can't wait to try it some day.

Another dish we enjoy at taberna de haro is the sauteed spinach and garlic. They add sultanas (golden raisins) to the dish, but as neither of us care much for raisins, we leave them out. The key is to chop the garlic into somehwat large chunks and sautee in a bit more oil than seems reasonable.

And who doesn't like sauteed mushrooms and garlic? While I would normally be all about adding fresh thyme to the mushrooms, when you consider the flavor strengths of the other tapas to be served it's probably better to keep the mushrooms rather simple...they pack plenty of flavor as is.